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 Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 9:04 am 
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Alliance (for 4 players spit in pairs)

Alliance is a communication strategy game.

It requires 2 decks with jokers. Shuffle these decks together. The remaining cards are the draw pile.

The players sit opposite their ally and get dealt 7 cards each. They do not look at them but fan them out in a way that all other players can see their hand, but they can only see the back of their cards. When a player has no more cards in his hand or the last card of the draw pile is drawn, the round is over. All players add the number of cards in their hands to the score of their opponent's team. First team to 77 points or more wins.

Each turn a player can:

  • Draw a card from the draw pile to give a hint to his ally.
  • Try to play a stack from his hand.
  • Try to reinforce a stack.

Give a hint:

You can inform your ally on the position of cards in his hand that fit either the suite or the number you specify.
For example: you have a four here, here and here. Or: you have hearts here, here and here.

You cannot give extra information. If by error you do, your ally has to pick your highest stack and add it to his hand, then shuffle his hand.

If at any moment you see the cards in your hand by error, you pick up the highest stack you control and shuffle it into your hand.

Players can rearrange their hand at any moment.

Try to play a stack:

You may create a stack on the field. To do so you have to choose a number of cards in your hand and put them on the field in front of you. You cannot play a single card this way. If all cards revealed are of the same suit or are of the same number or form an incrementing sequence of numbers, then you have created a stack.

If you have failed to create a stack, you pick back the cards you put down and each of your enemies may select a card in their ally’s hand and give it to you. You then shuffle your hand.

You share stacks with your ally.

Try to reinforce a stack:

You choose to reinforce a stack by declaring the number of cards that you are going to play. You reveal them.
There needs to already be at least one stack in your alliance for your to reinforce.

If all cards revealed this way could reinforce one of your stacks, they get added to that stack.

If you revealed strictly more cards that could reinforce than cards that couldn’t, you pick the cards up and DON’T shuffle your hand.

Otherwise you pick them up and DO shuffle your hand.

Maxing out a stack (8stack)

When a stack reaches 8 cards through a card you played it reaches maximum bonus: you turn the cards sideways, and for each maxed stack you control, you may put a card from your ally’s hand into the hand of one of your opponents. That opponent shuffles his hand.

When you max out a same color stack, in addition to giving cards to your opponents, you may look at the next three cards of the draw pile and put them back in any order.

When you max out a same numbers stack, in addition to giving cards to your opponents, your ally can exchange 2 cards in his hand for 2 cards in your hand.

When you max out an incrementing numbers stack, you double the number of cards you give to your opponents.

You can still add cards to a maxed stack, but it will not trigger its bonus any more.


Last edited by Anastenazontas on Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:06 am, edited 6 times in total.
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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 9:23 am 
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    Also: anyone interested in helping me playtest Titan's sign? I need 4 to 5 people and we could play by forum. If so, reply in here: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6855&p=113798#p113798

    The playtest of alliance will be a bit tougher I guess.

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 9:35 am 
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    I like the sounds of alliance, though with my goldfish like memory, I don't know that I'll be much good at it.

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 11:40 am 
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    Well, you do get to rearange the cards in your hand as you see fit, and you can hold them in separate places among your hands. If you manage your reinforcements correctly, you can easily find out what cards you have.

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 12:44 pm 
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    Here's the game I'm working on:

    Hungry Hungry Spidews
    A 2-4 player game using 1 deck of 52 cards

    “Why does spidew-bot toss captured soldiers at spidew webs?” Waspitater buzzed. “Why wouldn’t I toss soldiers into my spidews’ lovely webs?” Turantutots cackled.
    Spoiler: show
    Terms:
    Barracks=The neutral deck of cards
    Soldiers= Cards still in the barracks
    Spidews=Cards held by players
    Web=A spider web with 13 numbered catching points in a circle, starting with 2 and going up to the ace.
    There are 5 tosses in a turn.
    Winner is determined by which player owns the most spidews at the end of the game.

    Each player begins play with five cards drawn from the top of the Barracks. These five cards are the players’ first spidews. The players may look at their cards. Every toss, a soldier is tossed at the spidews’ web where it will stick and become a meal of the nearest spidew.

    Phase 1- Place Spidews: Each player chooses and places 0-3 spidews face-down in front of them on the web. The players may not place more than 5 spidews each in the entire turn, so they must be conscious that using multiple in one toss will guarantee a loss in another toss. If they have no spidews left, they do not participate in the toss, but must wait for the next turn.
    Phase 2- The Toss: A soldier is tossed at the web. This is represented by a card being drawn from the Barracks and laid face-up in front of the players. The number on the soldier card represents the catching point on the web that the tossed soldier landed.
    The players then reveal their face down cards. The numbers on the spidews’ cards represent the location that the spidew was placed on the web. The spidew at the location closest to where the soldier landed on the web gets to eat the soldier.
    Ties are broken by giving preference first to spades, then hearts, then diamonds, then clubs. If that ties, it is won by the spidew with the higher number.
    The player who placed the winning spidew gets to add that soldier to their hand, as it becomes a spidew to be used in further turns. All used spidews also go back to the players’ hands.
    Phase 3- Turn completion: The players continue phases 1 and 2 until there have been five tosses. The players must place exactly five spidews amongst these tosses.
    If all the players have used all their spidews before 5 tosses are completed, the turn ends and the soldiers have one more turn to live.
    Phase 4- Resolve and Place Bets: Between turns, the players may place bets with each other. There are two kinds of bets:
    A. That a specific player will win a specific number of new spidews in the coming turn.
    B. That a specific player will win either the greatest or least amount of spidews in the coming turn.
    The players may bet any number of spidews they have in excess of the five needed to place spidews during the next turn.
    The bets placed from the previous turn are resolved at the beginning of phase 4, before new bets are made. The won cards are taken from the losing player, shown to all the players, and then inserted into the winner’s hand of spidews.
    Phase 5 – Final Turn: Phases 1 through 4 are repeated until the barracks is depleted. When the last soldier is tossed, the turn is considered completed and all bets are resolved.

    If there are more than two players, the player with the least spidews may declare Revenge Turns.
    Revenge Turns: The player with the highest number of spidews and the player with the lowest number of spidews have decided to cannibalize the middle player(s). They lie in wait as each of the middle player(s) spidews come out of the lair… one-by one.
    The middle player(s) spidews are shuffled and laid face-down. Each revenge turn, the player with the most spidews lays two spidews face-down, and the player with the least number of spidews lays three spidews face-down.
    A spidew is then drawn from the middle player(s) deck and laid face-up. The other two players then reveal their spidews, and the closest spidew among them gets to eat the middle players spidew.
    That eaten spidew is then kept permanently by the winning player, but may not be added to the players hand. The only spidews allowed in the Revenge Turns are the ones who started in the Revenge Turns.
    Revenge Turns are repeated until the middle player(s) no longer have any spidews. The remaining player with the largest number of spidews wins the game.

    I haven't had much chance to playtest this, but I can already see some flaws if anybody has a recommendation:
    1. It's rarely good strategy to use more than 1 spidew in a given toss.
    2. Betting seems pointless because the results are too random.

    This could be solved by claiming this to be a Mathamacer's game. If the players are able to count and memorize cards, they can always know what is in an opponents deck. Thus, they would always know the odds. Makes it hard for non-mathamancers though.
    - Should I add a rule that all cards outside the Barracks should be kept face-up to help with this?

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 2:30 pm 
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    OK I'll give this a try. This one is a little complex but it's fun. I haven't found any major problems with it yet.

    ArkenCards

    This game is similar to Earth's Poker, but with several unique rules. Anywhere from 2 to 8 players. The deck is shuffled and each player receives a 4 card stack then a Luckamancy card is turned up in the center of the table. Your stack (hand) is made up of your 4 cards plus the card in the center. You are allowed to exchange up to 3 cards on the draw but must keep at least one in your stack, two if you count the Luckamancy card. Winning stacks are determined the same way as Poker except as described below.

    Here are the unique rules:

    1) If the Luckamancy card is ranked (a number card) all cards of that same rank, including itself, are wild. This is treated as the standard wild card in Poker. This also applies to face cards unless stated otherwise.

    2) If the Luckamancy card is a War Chief (Jack), it's Kingdom (suit) becomes dominant. A flush of that Kingdom beats any other stack in the game. No wild cards if one of these are the Luckmancy card.

    3) If the Luckamancy card is a Mancer (Queen) a special rule comes into effect depending on it's Kingdom (suit).
      Hippymancer (Queen of Hearts) Peace prevails and the highest Heart card in the player's stacks of 4 wins the turn. No draw or further action necessary. No wild cards if this is the Luckmancy card.
      Croakamancer (Queen of Spades) All players discard the number of cards they plan to draw, face up, at the same time. Each player, starting with the player to the left of the dealer, is dealt their replacements minus one and must draw that replacement card from the discards.
      Moneymancer (Queen of Diamonds) This turn only, the purpose of the game is points. You total the point value of the cards in your hand and the higest point value wins. Face cards count for 10 points each and Aces for 1 point except the Ace of Diamonds which is 11 points. No wild cards if this is the Luckmancy card.
      Shockamancer (Queen of Clubs) This turn each player is "shocked" and there is no draw. The turn is played as Stud Poker.

    4) If the Luckamancy card is a Ruler (King) An extra card is dealt to each player on the draw round. Play continues as normal but the hand is made of the best 5 out of 6 at the end of the turn.

    5) If the Luckamancy card is an ArkenTool (Ace) a special rule comes into effect depending on it's Kingdom (suit).
      ArkenDish (Ace of Hearts) Every player hands their stack to the player on their right before the draw. That player selects one of their cards to keep for their own stack. After every player has selected a card the stacks are returned and play continues normally.
      ArkenPliers (Ace of Spades) Each player is dealt 2 cards on the draw, and selects the 4 cards to keep in their stack from the 6 they now have.
      ArkenShoes (Ace of Diamonds) A second draw round is allowed after the first.
      ArkenHammer (Ace of Clubs) There is no draw, instead each player is dealt 2 "Dwagons" (extra cards) and this round is treated as under seven card stud rules.

    Optional Rule: Some people opt to include a single Carnymancer (Joker) in the deck. This has two effects on the game. It is always a wild card, giving whoever gets it an extra one, but it also allows the player to break any rule that might cause him to lose.
    Example: The Luckamancy card is a Hippymancer (Queen of Hearts) and the card holder has no hearts. The player can show the Carneymancer and declare the rule broken. Play continues under the normal draw rules and all Mancer's (Queens) would be wild.
    If the Carneymancer is included, it can not be the Luckamancy card. It is immediately discarded and another Luckamancy card put in it's place. Of course in this case the person to the left of the dealer will probably snatch it immediately if the Croakamancer (Queen of Spades) becomes the Luckamancy card.

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 5:45 pm 
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    Are the images that are going to be on the cards known?

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 5:51 pm 
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    Overdroid wrote:
    Are the images that are going to be on the cards known?
    I assume you're referring to the Erfworld themed decks of cards? I don't believe those are a confirmed thing yet, Rob is just pulling together these game rules as prep for potentially launching that as a project.

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    There's gotta be a good joke in here somewhere.

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     Post Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 7:25 pm 
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    0beron wrote:
    Overdroid wrote:
    Are the images that are going to be on the cards known?
    I assume you're referring to the Erfworld themed decks of cards? I don't believe those are a confirmed thing yet, Rob is just pulling together these game rules as prep for potentially launching that as a project.

    Perhaps if a game uses particular suits/cards in a particular way, they'll get considered as how the cards should look. Though I imagine something simplier like Wanda/Jillian being on the Queens, and Stanley/Slately being on the Kings, and maybe Jack/Ansome on the jacks or something. Parson would be the joker of course ;)

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     Post Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:46 pm 
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    Silversought wrote:
    Blackjack, at least, has some kind of decision making process.


    Hit on 16, Stay on 17, Double Down on 11, never split 10s. No it doesn't, it only feels like it does, if you're making a decision in Blackjack you're making a bad decision. Counting cards is a strategy, but that's not actually part of the game, and cannot be done online or when reshuffling a deck each hand.

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     Post Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 4:00 pm 
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    mmooneybsa wrote:
    Silversought wrote:
    Blackjack, at least, has some kind of decision making process.


    Hit on 16, Stay on 17, Double Down on 11, never split 10s. No it doesn't, it only feels like it does, if you're making a decision in Blackjack you're making a bad decision. Counting cards is a strategy, but that's not actually part of the game, and cannot be done online or when reshuffling a deck each hand.

    Well, it's more complex than that, but yes, blackjack can always be boiled down to the highest probability response to any situation, and counting cards only increases the related variables, it still doesn't technically require any real decision. But in honesty, this can be said about most games if looked at closely enough. The thing that makes Blackjack more interesting, is the fact that you get to at least make some kind of decision, even if there is a best decision.

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     Post Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 2:30 pm 
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    Here's a game I've been noodling on since this was announced. I haven't tried it with an actual person yet, so no idea how well it works in reality, but it seems like it would be a good game. I think you could do a 4 person version with 2 decks which would make some interesting hands possible. 2 aces and 2 kings suited but I dunno. lets start with what we have.

    Ten Gross

    2 players

    Objective:
    The goal of this game is to be the first player to win a predefined number of rounds. (3 seems like a good number to start out with.) The players will be
    building a hand which they will divided in to 2 groups of 4 cards, groups 1 and 2. Both players' group 1 will play against each other whichever
    group has the higher point value wins. The same is done with the 2nd group. You must win both groups or win 1 group and tie the other group
    to win the round. So, Winning 1 and losing 1 or tieing both means the round has no winner.

    Building a Hand and Going First:
    This game is played with a normal 52 card deck. (No jokers.) Shuffle the deck. Each player takes a card from the top of the deck and reveals it.
    Whoever draws highest goes first. These cards go in to the discard pile. The Ace is always played as a high card in this game.

    Players take turns building their hand till both players have a hand size of 8. Cards in a players hand are kept hidden. During a players turn
    they can do 1 of 2 things. They can either draw 2 cards from the deck, choosing 1 for their hand and discarding the other, or they can take 1
    card out of the discard pile. If there are no cards in the discard pile they must draw 2 and chose 1.

    Playing the Cards:
    Once both players have a hand size of 8, they arrange the cards in to two face down groups of 4 and declaring which is group 1 and which is group 2.
    Then each group 1 is revealed (then group 2 after group 1 is resolved), points are tallied on both sides and whoever has the most points wins that play.
    The card's number is it's point value. If you have 2, 3 or 4 of the same card in the group each additional card is worth 2, 3 or 4 times its values. 3 sevens
    would be worth 42 points (7 + 14 + 21). A group with the cards 2,4,8 and 10 would be worth 24 (2 + 4 + 8 + 10). face cards and the Ace have no card value
    when played with other cards. face cards and the Ace act as group multipliers. The first face card doubles the entire groups value. the second tripples it
    and the third quadruples it. If all 4 cards are face cards or the ace. They stop being multipliers and act as normal point value cards. with point values as
    such Ace-14, King-13, Queen-12, Jack-11. In this way two of these cards would behave the same as two normal cards such that the 2nd queen is worth
    24 and the 3rd would be 36. Finally if you get a 4 card straight double the final score and If all 4 cards are suited triple the final score.

    Some examples groups: (assume no suited groups)
    A Q K 4 = 2 x 3 x 4 x 4 = 96
    A A 7 8 = 2 x 3 x (7 + 8) = 90
    Q 3 3 10 = 2 x (3 + 6 + 10) = 38
    5 6 7 8 = (5 + 6 + 7 + 8) x 2 = 52
    J Q K A = (11 + 12 + 13 + 14) x 2 = 100 -- suited version is 300
    A A A A = (14 + 28 + 42 + 56) = 140
    10 J Q K = (10 x 2 x 3 x 4) x 2 = 480 -- best group in the game ... suited version is 1440 - ten gross
    A 2 3 4 = 2 x (2 + 3 + 4) = 18 -- note: ace is always a high card, this is not a straight
    2 3 4 6 = 2 + 3 + 4 + 6 = 15 -- 2nd worst group in the game
    2 2 4 5 = 2 + 4 + 4 + 5 = 15 -- Also the 2nd worst group in the game
    2 3 3 4 = 2 + 3 + 6 + 4 = 15 -- And another 2nd worst group in the game
    2 2 3 4 = 2 + 4 + 3 + 4 = 13 -- worst group in the game

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     Post Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:08 pm 
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    Iminyourdirtz wrote:
    Alliance (for 4 players spit in pairs)

    Alliance is a communication strategy game.

    It requires 2 decks with jokers. Shuffle these decks together. The remaining cards are the draw pile.

    The players sit opposite their ally and get dealt 7 cards each. They do not look at them but fan them out in a way that all other players can see their hand, but they can only see the back of their cards. When a player has no more cards in his hand or the last card of the draw pile is drawn, the round is over. All players add the number of cards in their hands to the score of their opponent's team. First team to 77 points or more wins.

    Each turn a player can:

    • Draw a card from the draw pile to give a hint to his ally.
    • Try to play a stack from his hand.
    • Try to reinforce a stack.

    Give a hint:

    You can inform your ally on the position of cards in his hand that fit either the suite or the number you specify.
    For example: you have a four here, here and here. Or: you have hearts here, here and here.

    You cannot give extra information. If by error you do, your ally has to pick your highest stack and add it to his hand, then shuffle his hand.

    If at any moment you see the cards in your hand by error, you pick up the highest stack you control and shuffle it into your hand.

    Players can rearrange their hand at any moment.

    Try to play a stack:

    You may create a stack on the field. To do so you have to choose a number of cards in your hand and put them on the field in front of you. You cannot play a single card this way. If all cards revealed are of the same suit or are of the same number or form an incrementing sequence of numbers, then you have created a stack.

    If you have failed to create a stack, you pick back the cards you put down and each of your enemies may select a card in their ally’s hand and give it to you. You then shuffle your hand.

    You share stacks with your ally.

    Try to reinforce a stack:

    You choose to reinforce a stack by declaring the number of cards that you are going to play. You reveal them.
    There needs to already be at least one stack in your alliance for your to reinforce.

    If all cards revealed this way could reinforce one of your stacks, they get added to that stack.

    If you revealed strictly more cards that could reinforce than cards that couldn’t, you pick the cards up and DON’T shuffle your hand.

    Otherwise you pick them up and DO shuffle your hand.

    When a stack reaches 8 cards through a card you played it reaches maximum bonus: you turn the cards sideways, and for each maxed stack you control, you may put a card from your ally’s hand into the hand of one of your opponents. That opponent shuffles his hand.

    When you max out a same color stack, in addition to giving cards to your opponents, you may look at the next three cards of the draw pile and put them back in any order.

    When you max out a same numbers stack, in addition to giving cards to your opponents, your ally can exchange 2 cards in his hand for 2 cards in your hand.

    When you max out an incrementing numbers stack, you double the number of cards you give to your opponents.

    You can still add cards to a maxed stack, but it will not trigger its bonus any more.


    This seems like it would be pretty difficult to play, for a few reasons.

    A) I'm not sure how exactly to hold a bunch of cards so that:
    1) I never accidentally see the other side of them
    2) My ally and opponents can see them
    3) I maintain their order.

    It seems you'd need some sort of card-holder device, like for scrabble letters except facing out.

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     Post Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:59 pm 
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    @ftl, Re: Alliance - I've actually played a game very similar to Alliance, but without teams. It's no harder to hold the cards fanned out facing away from you than holding them fanned out facing you. And, it's not that many cards at a time in Alliance, unless you're really bad at it.

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     Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:43 am 
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    Hi -

    Here's a game I came up with a year or so ago. I have adapted it to fit the 52/54 card standard deck.

    I'd love some feedback!

    EIGHT CARD ERF WAR

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     Post Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:32 pm 
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    I'd been thinking about your game for a bit Dave, nice to see it put in.

    I feel like it could totally be expanded into full blown campaigns or the like somehow. Could be very interesting.

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     Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:16 am 
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    Website: http://anastenazontas.blogspot.fr/2012/03/casino-surnatural.html
    As far as Alliance goes, I was inspired by the mechanic of hanabi (http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/98778/hanabi) of having your hands revealed to the other players and needing to communicate information to your teamates. I just chose to make the game a bit competitive. It is easy enough to hold 10-15 cards in your hand, fanned out with their backs facing you instead of the front. I have not playtested the game yet, but I will probably modify the rules if it turns out his is too many cards.

    As far as Eight card erf war goes, I really like the idea. The rules are a bit hard to remember however. I would like to playtest it.

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     Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 3:57 pm 
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    This is a nameless two-player game using any deck you feel like. I haven't settled on one.

    Throughout the game, the black suits are the attacking suits and the red are the defending suits

    You deal 6 cards to each player and each player puts 3 face-down on the table. Three more cards are dealt to each player. The table hand are part of the player's hand and can be played in addition to a card from the hand, but are not replaced.

    The non-dealer, the defense, puts a red court card on the table face up or any card face down. This is the defending character for the round. The charactors are worth the following:

    Face-down: 5
    Jack: 10
    Queen: 20
    King: 30 (If a tarock is being used, the Cavalier/Knight is worth 10 and the other three are worth 10 more points than I just said).

    The player then draws a new card from the deck.

    The dealer, the attacker, puts down a black court card or a face-down card, the attacking character, and a black ace or pip-card or face-down card, the support card. The dealer has the option at this point of also playing one of their table cards as an additional support card. and draws two cards to bring their hand up to six. The value of all cards together must exceed the amount the defense had played. The support card is worth:

    Face-down: 1 (or one less than whatever the lowest pip-card happens to be).
    Ace: 2 (or whatever the lowest pip-cards happens to be)
    Pip-card: the number of pips.

    The defense then plays a red pip-card or any card face-down (along with a table-card if desired) to make the defense count equal or exceed the attacker's count and then draws a card. Each player takes turns doing this until one player decides to not play again. At this point, the round is over. The attacker wins if, when the round is over, their count is greater than the defense's. The defense wins if, when the round is over, their count equals or exceeds the attacker's. For the next round, the old defense becomes the new attacker. Rounds are played until the deck is exhausted and the player who's won the most rounds wins the game.

    If played with Jokers, these can only be played face-down. If played with tarock cards, the trumps are wild and can be played as either offense or defense and for the purposes of the count and are worth whatever their trump number is.


    Tricks.

    This is a three-player game using a deck with two jokers. 4 cards are dealt to each person face-up and 14 are dealt face down. The face-up cards are treated as a normal part of a hand, they are just there so that everyone knows where about one half of the deck is.

    Each person bids the number of tricks they want to try to make. Each bid is be modified with:
    “with”, which is an invitation for another player to partner with them or
    “alone”, which is a bid to make their tricks without help.

    Each bit level “alone” outbids the same level “with”.

    After a winning bidder has been chosen, the winner declares a trump suit or “no-trump”. If the winning bid was “with”, then the player to the bidder's left is given a chance to join and if they decline, the remaining player has a chance to join. If both player decline, then the player with the highest face-up card of the trump suit is the bidder's partner. If the hand is being played no-trump, then the player with the highest face-up card becomes the bidder's partner. In case of a tie, the player to the bidder's left is the bidder's partner.

    The player not partnered with the bidder or the player on the bidder's left if the bid was “alone”, leads the first trick. Each player is obligated to follow suit, if they can, and to win the trick if they can, but Jacks never have to be played. The winner of each trick leads the next.

    [Errata: “on the bidder's left if the bid” to”on the bidder's right if the bid” and strike out “ but Jacks never have to be played”]

    The first Jack played to the trick is highest trump or the highest no-trump card, but the second Jack played to a trick cannot win a trick.

    [Errata: “The first Jack played to the trick is highest trump or the highest no-trump card, but the second Jack played to a trick cannot win a trick.” to “The first Jack is the second-highest trump and the second Jack played is the highest trump”]


    Tricks are scored in following manner:
    Bid made:
    With:
    Bidder: 2 points for every trick won up to the bid amount, 1 point for every trick won over the bid amount; (3 and 2 for no-trump games);
    Partner: 1 point for ever trick won up to the bid amount, 0 for every trick won over the bid amount (2 and 1 for no-trump games)
    Opponent: -1 point for every tick the bidder and partner win over the bid amount (-3 for no-trump games).
    Alone:
    Bidder: 3 points for every trick won up to the bid amount, 2 points for every trick won over the bid amount (5 and 4 for no-trump games);
    Opponents: -1 point each for every trick won over the bid amount (-2 for no-trump games).
    Bid lost:
    With:
    Bidder: 2 for every trick won and -1 for every trick less than bid―ex.: 3 tricks won on a 6 trick bid creates a score of 6-3=3 and if 2 are won then 4-4=0 and if 1 trick is won, then 2-5=-3 (3 and -2 for a no-trump game)
    Partner: 1 point for every trick won and 0 for every trick less than bid (2 and -1 if a no trump game);
    Opponent: 4 points for each trick less than bid (8 for a no trump game), so if the bidder misses by 3 tricks, the opponent scores 12; 4, 16 and 5, 20.
    Alone:
    Bidder: 3 for every trick won and -1 for every trick short of bid so for 3 tricks won on a bid of 6 the score is 9-3=6 and when two are won, 6-4=2 and when only one is won, 3-5=--2 (5 and -3 for no-trump);
    Opponents: 2 for every trick less than bid (4 for a no-trump game) so if the bidder fails by 3 tricks, each opponent gets 6; 4, 8 and 5, 10.

    The game lasts until some predetermined stopping point and the highest-scorer wins. This game can be played with a predetermined kitty that everyone has anted into and pays into or is payed out of as the game progresses.


    Last edited by FrankHarr on Mon Jun 16, 2014 4:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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     Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:43 pm 
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    Battle Crest Pins Supporter Print Book 2 & Draw Book 3 Supporter This user is a Tool! Here for the 10th Anniversary Has collected at least one unit This user has been published!
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    Website: http://www.overdroid.com
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    I have a question. If our game wins, does Erfworld own our rules? Would they have a problem if we re-themed the rules for the game we created for our own deck game, say? It certainly wouldn't change the status of my submission, but I was just curious.

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     Post Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:08 pm 
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    I don't really play many card games anymore, so I probably won't be following through or playtesting, but I spent the last hour reading the other games and thinking about one. I'm calling it Royals (or Stacks, for the non-Royal-loving bunches).

    Using the standard 52 card deck + 2 Jokers:
    Shuffle, draw a stack of 8.
    Arrange your cards using the following rules as guidelines:
    Face cards are Royals, they add 1 point to the number value of any number card following them, but nothing to those preceding them.
    (My initial thought is this doesn't stack, but maybe it should?)
    Aces defeat all number cards following them, but none before them. Aces are killed by any following opposing Royal, but not any Royal played before them.
    Jokers kill all following Royals unless they are killed by preceding Aces. (Since there are only two Jokers, maybe they also kill the Aces.)
    An Ace played early would then kill an opposing Joker (and probably die itself), but an Ace played after an opposing Joker would only stop it from killing Royals.
    (Possibly, Aces also save otherwise PREVIOUSLY defeated number cards from the discard pile. So an Ace played in the middle would defeat following number cards on the opposing side and rescue any earlier "dead" number cards.)
    Number cards get their Royal bonus and take on their opposing number, if and only if it's another number card. Losing (dead) cards will go to the discard pile at the end of the round. Winning cards stay and go to the reshuffle pile at the end of the round.
    Royals can't attack or be attacked directly, except by preceding Jokers. But remaining living number cards in the stack may be sacrificed to kill an opposing Royal on the field. I'm not sure of the best mechanism for that, if you get to decide which to attack, or if it's first Royal, etc. My first guess is that you have to sacrifice 10 or more number points in cards to kill a Royal, and that the other side can sacrifice the same or greater number points to save a Royal.
    If a King dies, then ALL the members of its suit die.
    You lose the game when you have no Royals or no number cards left. Neither Aces nor Jokers count here.

    Sample hand:
    R = Joker
    side 1: R , Js, 10h, 8s, 7d, 5c, 2s, Kd
    side 2: Jh, 9h, 9s, 8h, 7s, 6s, 4d, Ks
    Joker kills Jack of Hearts - bonus is lost
    9 hearts turned over versus 10 hearts + 1 for Jack of Spades, 9h dies
    8 spades vs 8 hearts, would have been a tie but Jack of Hearts is dead, Jack of Spades bonus means 8s dies
    7s vs 7d + 1, 7s dies
    6s vs 5c + 1, both die
    4d vs 2s + 1, 2s dies
    Ks vs Kd, nothing - but Joker kills King of Spades, all other spades die!

    I'm sure there are megaflaws but what the heck, I'm sharing.

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