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 Post Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:22 am 
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How about we simply put the topic to rest? Drache, it's technically not your place to determine what's appropriate, Rob is going to pick the games he wants so commentary about others' games (beyond mechanical clarification/questions) really isn't neccessary. Thus by the same toke, GW, you don't need to defend your game to anyone.

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GJC wrote:
Two guys with basically the same name in a discussion about a character getting cloned.
There's gotta be a good joke in here somewhere.

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     Post Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 1:50 pm 
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    0beron wrote:
    [...] commentary about others' games (beyond mechanical clarification/questions) really isn't neccessary.


    Can I point out that without marking on cards or having a cheat sheet in front of you, the various games where each individual face card has a unique and game changing power are going to be really hard to learn all those complex powers?

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     Post Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 2:42 pm 
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    I imagine that Rob would make such a cheat sheet, even for games that aren't technically all that hard, so we shouldn't be discouraged from making such games. But it's definitely a good point to bring up in case he hasn't thought of that.

    _________________
    "I'm afraid I don't understand. And also afraid that I do."
    GJC wrote:
    Two guys with basically the same name in a discussion about a character getting cloned.
    There's gotta be a good joke in here somewhere.

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     Post Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 4:15 pm 
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    O.K., I have an errata to another game and one last game to suggest:

    From Tricks:

    The player not partnered with the bidder or the player on the bidder's left if the bid was “alone”, leads the first trick. Each player is obligated to follow suit, if they can, and to win the trick if they can, but Jacks never have to be played. The winner of each trick leads the next.

    [Errata: “on the bidder's left if the bid” to”on the bidder's right if the bid” and strike out “ but Jacks never have to be played”]

    And

    The first Jack played to the trick is highest trump or the highest no-trump card, but the second Jack played to a trick cannot win a trick.

    [Errata: “The first Jack played to the trick is highest trump or the highest no-trump card, but the second Jack played to a trick cannot win a trick.” to “The first Jack is the second-highest trump and the second Jack played is the highest trump”]

    And my new game is. . .

    Toder:

    This is most-like a complicated version of pinochle. The sort of thing very bored people might come up with to have lots of nice arguments over.

    This is a game with two decks (with 2 Jokers each) mixed together for three to five players.

    Each player starts with the same amount of money or points or whatever. 12 cards are dealt to each person, a fifth hand called the talon and a sixth called the dummy. With three and players, the dummy is across from the dealer. With four players, the dummy is the third from the dealer's left. The players bet into a pot until all have bet. A common practice is that when the player with the least amount had bid everything they have, the bidding ends and that player is the highest. The highest bidder declares the game in the following manner:

    States a suit as trump, no-trump or “ask” 's for a partner.
    States “with” or “without” meaning that Jokers are the highest (or only) trump or are blank cards.

    If the highest bidder “asks”, then each other player, in turn, has an opportunity to “accept”, that is agree to partner with the highest bidder, but does so without knowing what the trump suit is going to be. If no player accepts, the dummy is the asker's partner and the bidder plays it when it's the dummy's turn. The top card of the un-dealt deck is turned up. The suit of the turn-up is trump or, if a Joker, played at no-trump. If the highest bidder does not ask or if the a player accepts the bidder's ask, the dummy is turned over anyway so all can see what's in the hand and not played.

    A number of cards from the un-dealt deck are segregated into a draw-pile that equals six times the number of players (including dummy if being played). The player to the left of the highest bidder leads the first trick. Each player, on their tern, can meld four cards, then play to the trick. Melded cards are not picked up again but melded cards can be played to tricks, and any number of new melds can be made.

    As the tricks are played, the following points can be earned.

    Tricks: 2 if clubs are trump, 3 -diamonds, 4 -hearts, 5 -spades, 6 -no-trump

    Marriage: 2
    Run of 3: 4
    Run of 4: 6

    Pair: 2
    3-of-a-kind: 6
    4-of-a-kind: 12

    4 in one color: 1
    4 in all suits: 2
    4 flush: 4

    One group of four cards can have more than one meld. For example:

    A,A,2,3 of hearts is worth 14 points: 2 for the pair, 4 for each of the run-of-threes and 4 for the flush.
    A,A,2,3 of hearts and diamonds is worth 11 points, two for the pair, 4 for each of the run-of-threes and 1 for call cards in the same suit.
    A,A,2,3 of unmatched suits is worth 10 points, two for the pair and 4 for each of the run-of-threes.
    A,2,3,4, of hearts is worth 10 points, 6 for the run and 4 for the flush.
    A,2,3,4, of hearts and diamonds is worth 7 points, 6 for the run and 1 for all cards of the same color.
    A,A,A,2 of hearts and diamonds is worth 7 points, 6 for the three of a kind and 1 for having all cards the same color.

    For the first six tricks, you do not have to follow suit or win the trick and after each trick is won, a new card is given to each player. After the first sixtricks, you have to follow suit and you have to win if you can.

    Court cards are blanks and although you may have to play them to follow suit or lead to establish a suit, unless you lead with a court card, they cannot win a trick or be used to trump. The cards A-10 are ranked in revers order, i.e. A, 2, 3, 4, etc. However, when the card is played and sometimes what suit they're in makes a difference.

    A, 9 and 10-all suits: the first-played card is out-ranked by the second-played.
    2-5-all suit: the first-played card is a blank, just like the court cards. The second-played card, however, rank 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th in the suit.

    6-clubs: treated like the A's, 9's and 10's.
    6-diamonds, hearts, and spades: treated like 2-5.
    7-clubs and diamonds: treated like A's, 9's and 10's.
    7-hearts and spades: treated like 2-5.
    8-clubs, diamonds and hearts: treated like the A's, 9's and 10's.
    8-spades: treated like 2-5.

    If the game is being played “without”, then jacks are not considered any suit and if lead, any suit can follow the trick and the highest-ranked card played takes the trick.

    After all the tricks are played, if the highest bidder wins the most points, they win the entire pot. If the the highest bidder doesn't win the most points, then the player with the most points wins half the pot and the the other players (besides the highest bidder) split the other half and the highest bidder gets nothing.

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     Post Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:29 am 
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    Croakmancers Calamity

    Players 2-4 with a single deck up to 8 with 2 decks no jokers are used.
    Each player receives 13 cards of a single suit each chooses 1 and sets it aside. All set aside cards are revealed at the same time, the person who chose the lowest ranked card will get the first turn, (aces are worth 1 kings 13) If there is a tie for the lowest, tied players set aside an additonal card untill the tie is resolved or they reveal all 13 of their cards at which point all players start over. Each player may then arrange all their remaining cards however they see fit within a stack and then place their revealed cards on the bottom of the deck from the most recently revealed to the least. Play then begins moving counter clockwise around the table

    During each turn a player Uncroaks (reveals) their top card If they have no Uncroaked, and may choose to Uncroak an additonal card If they already have any from previous turns. They then must attack either the player to the left or to the right of themselves If those players have any Uncroaked or cards in their stack Players with no Uncroaked and no stack are ignored. If the Defender has no Uncroaked in play they Uncroak the top card of their stack. The winner is the player with the higher point total and the looser's Uncroaked are placed in the winners score pile. A tie kills both groups of Uncroaked which are discarded without score. A Defending Ace is an Automatic Tie. At the End of each combat all surviving Uncroaked that participated recieve a token that lowers their value by 1. The game ends when all players except 1 have no Uncroaked or stack remaining. The player with the most cards in their Score pile when the game ends is the winner.

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     Post Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 9:50 pm 
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    Summary:
    Stratego, with warlords.

    Play with an ordinary deck of cards; one player gets red; the other, black. No jokers. Preferably, the backs of the cards do not have 180° rotational symmetry, but this isn't a big deal - in this case, one player plays with their cards sideways.

    Play on a 8x10 board given below. A is where side A may set up, B where side B may set up. E is empty (passable) ground, and X is impassable except to 8s (fliers).
    AAAAAAAAAA
    AAAAAAAAAA
    AAXXAAXXAA
    EEXXEEXXEE
    EEXXEEXXEE
    BBXXBBXXBB
    BBBBBBBBBB
    BBBBBBBBBB
    (since sizes of cards are standard, no need to actually have a real board, just two 4x2 obstructions.)

    Each side arranges its cards face down in its territory. Alternate play, moving one piece 1 space +-ways (like short-ranged rooks) except as noted. Attack by moving one card onto an opponent's card; reveal both cards, follow combat rules given below. If attacker wins, attacking card moves into the defender's square. Loser removed from game. Revealed cards go back to being hidden.
    Alternate move: Pick up two adjacent cards from your side, shuffle them, opponent chooses which to place back in which starting spot (i.e. 50% chance to swap).

    The Aces of spades and hearts are the overlords (mnemonic: clubs and diamonds are harder than spades and hearts. Same mnemonic later on for the kings. These are the only two cases where specific suit matters). If an overlord gets into a fight, it loses, and losing the overlord loses the game. If one overlord attacks the other, the attacker wins.
    The other Ace, both 2s, both 3s are traps - immobile. Mutually destroy on defense, except that 5s and casters can disarm traps without dying.
    4 through 10 are increasingly strong units with number values as shown. Higher value wins; on a tie, attacker wins.

    5 are sappers - they defeat traps without dying
    8 are fliers - they may move +-ways directly across the obstructions in one step.

    Leadership: In each fight, after revealing the two cards fighting, the player who appears to be losing may reveal a commander unit adjacent to either fighting unit to increase the strength of their side and turn the tide. Both sides may continue to reveal commanders as long as they have more to reveal; however, these bonuses do not stack; only the best is taken.
    8s attacking across an obstruction count as being on the last square of the obstruction for purposes of leadership.

    Jacks are low-level warlords, 1 leadership. Fights as a 6 (modifies self to 7 if no better leadership shown).
    Queens are mid-level warlords, 2 leadership. Fights as 8 (modifies self to 10 if no better leadership shown)
    Kings of Diamonds and Clubs are Chief Warlords. 3 leadership. Fights as a 10 (modifies self to 13).
    Kings of Hearts and Spades are casters. 2 leadership for 9s (golems) only. On the attack, defeats CWL, casters, traps. Defeats overlords on defense, loses all other fights.

    Leadership example:

    J
    5K < K is CWL
    6
    Q


    5 attacks 6. Black player would lose, so reveals Jack. Now 6 to 6, attacker would win.
    Red player reveals Q. Now 6 to 8, defender would win.
    Black player reveals CWL. Now 8 to 8, attacker wins.

    Leadership with obstruction example:

    8K < CWL
    X
    X
    X
    XJ
    Q

    8 Attacks. Jack may lead. CWL may not. So, 8 could only be boosted to only 9, so black does not reveal Jack.

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     Post Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 1:03 pm 
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    Last year I put a bit of thought and time into modifying the rules of War to turn it into an actual game rather than just an exercise in flipping cards and keeping score. I changed some of the terms to make it feel more Erfworldy, and added the Casters add-on.

    Placed under a spoiler tag due to length.
    Spoiler: show
    BATTLEPSPACE

    Most, if not all, of us have played the classic card game War. Eventually, everyone stops. Why? The game is beyond simple, there is no strategy, and there are no decisions to make so no players are actually necessary except to flip cards and judge outcomes. This is War with tactics and strategy added in. This is Battlespace.

    COMPONENTS:
    Each player will need one standard deck of playing cards with two jokers.
    One standard six sided die is also needed, although one die per player would be better.

    VALUE OF CARDS:
    Numbered cards are worth their point value. Aces are low and worth 1. Jacks are worth 11, Queens are worth 12, Kings are worth 13, and Jokers are worth 15.

    SETUP:
    Each player shuffles their deck and places it nearby.
    First Blood is drawn: Each player takes the top card of their deck and places it face up in their croaked pile. The player with the highest value card gets to choose to attack or defend first. Resolve ties with die rolls.
    Each player then draws five cards to form their opening hand.

    PLAYFIELD:
    Each player has 6 hexes to Pop cards into for Battle. Each player’s hexes are blocked by the opposing player’s hexes.

    (Player 1) [Croaked] [Deck] [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]
    (Player 2) [Croaked] [Deck] [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]

    BASIC PLAY:
    Each Turn is divided into three Rounds: Attack, Counterattack, and Reinforce.
    In each Round each player is allowed two Pops and one Move, in any order they choose.
    To Pop is to place a card from their hand face down in one of their open hexes.
    To Move is to take an already played face up card and move it to an open hex.
    In the Attack phase the attacking player Pops first followed by the defending player. Then cards are turned face up simultaneously and Battle is resolved. In the Counterattack phase the defending player Pops first followed by the attacking player. Then all cards are turned face up and battle is resolved.

    Battle:
    The first step of Battle is that unopposed cards do damage. A card is unopposed if there is no enemy card in the same hex. Jokers do three damage and are immediately placed in the croaked pile. All other cards do one damage and remain in play. For each point of damage the player takes they place the top card of their deck in the croaked pile. If a player does not have enough cards remaining to cover damage the game is over and they lose the game. Both players may lose simultaneously.

    The second step of Battle is that opposed cards enter combat. Each opposed pair enters combat separately. The six sided die is rolled and the roll is added to the value of the card. The lower number is eliminated and that card is placed in the croaked pile. In the case of a tie both cards remain in play.

    Finally in Reinforce both players may disband any cards in their hand or that they have in play to their croaked pile and draw from their deck until they have five cards in their hand. If you do not have enough cards remaining simply draw all the cards you have left. You do not lose the game for being unable to draw.

    Play then continues in the next turn with the attacking and defending players switching roles. Play continues until one or both players are eliminated.

    ADD-ON RULES:
    Add-on rules are optional rules to enhance the tactical options of the game. Any number of add-ons can be combined in one game.

    Suit Dominance:
    Each suit has an advantage over another suit. Spades get +2 in combat against Hearts, Hearts get +2 in combat against Clubs, Clubs get +2 in combat against Diamonds, and Diamonds get +2 in combat against Spades. No suit has an advantage over jokers, and jokers get no advantage over any suit.

    Traps:
    Aces, twos, and threes are now classified as Traps. Traps play as normal with additional rules. If either player rolls the number corresponding with the card the Trap activates,croaking itself and the opposing card. Place both in their croaked piles. If both players roll the corresponding number both cards are croaked and the opposing player takes one damage.

    Casters:
    Each play may choose one caster before the game begins, which is announced to all players. Once per game your caster may cast a spell.
    Turnamancer: for one turn you can choose to be the attacker twice or the defender twice.
    Hippiemancer: for one turn you and your cards neither deal nor receive damage and battle does not occur for you.
    Shockamancer: add an extra die to one battle, even after the die roll.
    Croakamancer: take the top card of any player's croaked pile and put it on the top of their deck.
    Dirtamancer: choose one of an opponent's hexes, they can not Pop or Move a card into that hex this turn.
    Luckamancer: change the result of any one die roll to any side of your choice.
    Lookamancer: look at a single player's hand.
    Predictamancy: look at the top 3 cards of any players deck, you may place one card on the bottom of their deck and all other cards go back on the top of their deck in any order you choose.

    Skirmishes:
    For a fast game split one deck between two people. Split the deck spades/clubs vs. hearts/diamonds with one joker each. There are only four hexes between players.

    Multiplayer Brawl:
    Multiplayer brawl is a mass game where everyone is out for themselves. The high card for First Blood decides which player will be the first attacker. In the attack round play continues clockwise until everyone has Popped cards, then all cards are flipped up simultaneously. In the counterattack round the last player in the attack round goes first and play continues counterclockwise. Again all players Pop cards before all cards are flipped. The attacking player then changes clockwise before the next turn.
    Each player’s six battle hexes are split. Three hexes face to the player on the left and three hexes face the player on the right. Each player may only attack the player immediately next to them. Eliminated players leave the table and battle hexes are set between the new neighboring players.

    [3] - - [Deck] - - [4]
    [2] - [Croaked] - [5]
    [1] - - - - - - - - - [6]

    Multiplayer Team:
    Players are divided into equal teams and arranged so that no teammates are next to each other and are evenly spaced between opponents. All players on the same team play their cards at the same time, other than that turns progress as per multiplayer brawl. If teammates end up next to each other they may stage cards in the hexes between them but those cards to not do battle or cause damage. As a special move, a player may choose to use one Pop per Turn (not round) to place a card from their hand on top of a teammate’s deck. Otherwise play proceeds like in a multiplayer brawl.

    _________________
    *****************************************************
    This signature says something else when you aren't looking at it.
    *****************************************************


    Last edited by Daefaroth on Sat Aug 02, 2014 6:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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     Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:38 am 
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    I've come up with a variation of a childhood favourite.

    Foolamancer’s Gold
    Played as the game Cheat (or Bullshit, or ‘I Doubt That’) but with variant rules.

    Spoiler: show
    Requirements

    1 deck for up to 6 players (2 decks for up to 10), 2 jokers per deck included.
    Really, you could have any amount of players to any amount of decks, but this should keep the game intelligible.

    Rules

    Shuffle the deck.

    Place the top card face up to the side. All remaining cards which share this cards number are Fools Gold (Trump card). This card remains face up and out the game. If the card is a joker, cut it back into the pack and deal the next one.

    The remaining cards are dealt efficiently (i.e. evenly but more than one at a time) until the pack is exhausted. In the event of inequality, either:
    1. Tough luck! Keep dealing…
    2. The remainder is placed as a Fools Blind in the centre, as a ‘prize’ to the first Fool.
    3. The dealer can pass out the remainder to whomever he/she wants.

    The aim of the game is to get rid of your cards.

    Play runs clockwise. The first player to the dealer’s left with a 2 starts the round. She places as many cards as she likes face down in the centre, and calls the amount of cards and the number on them, beginning with 2s (e.g. three 2s). The next player then does the same with 3s, and so on through to Aces, at which point counting starts from 2 again.

    However, what you put down does not have to correspond with your call. For example, you could call “Three 2s” and put down a Jack, a King and two Aces (that’s right, four cards, none of them 2’s).

    If anyone suspects foul play, they shout out “Fool!” The last hand played is then turned over, and if it corresponds to the call (i.e. the player called “three 2’s” and there were actually and only three 2’s) then the shouter is the Fool, and takes the pot (which includes all hands played in the round so far plus the Fool’s Blind if applicable); otherwise the cheater is the Fool and takes the pot. These cards go back into the Fool's hand.Play starts over with the loser playing the first hand.

    Play ends when a player successfully empties their hand (of course, their final hand can still be shouted at).

    Fools Gold

    The first major variant is the Fools Gold (see above for how this is determined). Any hand that contains at least one Fools Gold card contains exactly the card’s it is said to have, with the following constraint: the hand can have no more of the number called than can actually exist in play (i.e four for 1 deck, eight for 2 decks etc. NB the face-up Fools Gold card is considered Out of Play!). An opponent who calls Fool on this hand automatically loses the round.

    The Joker

    The Joker, far from being a trump card, is a booby prize. This little fella counts as no number at all (i.e. any hand containing him is a cheating hand), and overrides the Fools Gold. If a hand containing the Joker is ‘Fooled’, the player who played the hand loses the round.


    Variant for speed play (particularly when using 2 or more decks): Colour me a Fool.
    Spoiler: show
    The effect of the Fool’s Gold depends on colour. If it is a different colour to the face-up Fools Gold, it plays as per usual rules, however, if the fooled hand contains Fools Gold of the same colour as the face-up, all of the cards in the pot are stacked face-down and put to one side. Although technically they are out of play, they do not affect the call allowance for normal Fools Gold. This causes the amount of cards in the game to shrink (possibly quite dramatically!).

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     Post Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:14 pm 
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    Pimp My Unipego’
    or Unipegataur Dress Up Game

    Rules:
    - For two or more players.
    - All point values are the same number as on the card. Jacks count for eleven, queens for twelve, and Kings for thirteen. Aces count for one point unless used for the Unipegataur’s horn, in which they count fourteen points.

    The Royal Unipegataur Tournament is soon to be underway, and riders are preparing their unipegataurs for battle!
    Each player has their own deck. Every turn, they draw a single card and may assign it as one of the 6 components of their very own unipegataur. The point values of these 6 component slots are known as the "base stats" of the unipegataur. The card assigned must fit into the designated number range. Once a card is assigned, that component slot is considered filled, and may not be modified in any following turns. The component slots available are:
    Right Wing – Ace through five
    Left Wing – Ace through five
    Horse Body – Six through ten
    Human Torso – Six through ten
    Rider – Jack, Queen, or King
    Horn – Any card
    The player may choose not to assign a card to a component slot and instead send it to the discard pile. This is advantageous for the player who wants to wait and build up their unipegataur’s base stats.
    When the first player has either assigned the drawn card or discarded it, play passes to the next player who also draws a card and chooses whether to assign it or discard it. When all players have had a turn, play passes back to the first player and it begins again.
    Once a player has assigned cards to all 6 component slots of their unipegataur, all future cards drawn by them are immediately assigned to the new weapon slot. Every card in the weapon slot counts for 1 point. However, those points are cumulative, enabling the player’s unipegataur’s weapon score to grow.
    The game continues until all players have assigned cards to all 6 component slots of their unipegataur, or the players run out of cards, in which the game ends and points are calculated.

    When the game ends, each player adds together all the points from each of the 6 component slots and weapon slot.
    The unipegataur with the highest number of points wins!
    Ex. Hank the Unipegataur decided to slowly build up to high base stats. He ended up assigning a 4 to Left Wing, 5 to Right Wing, 7 to Horse Body, 10 to Human Torso, a King to the Rider, and Jack to the horn. Hank’s score totals to 50.
    Todd the Unipegataur decided to quickly build up his base stats so that he could get a good weapon. He ended up assigning 2 to Left Wing, 3 to Right Wing, 6 to Horse Body, 10 to Human Torso, a Jack to the Rider, and a 9 to the horn. Todd then waited 10 turns for Hank to finish his base stats, allowing him to build a 10-point weapon.
    Todd’s score totals to 51.
    Todd’s score is higher than Hank’s. Todd wins!

    Variant play: Decked out with Dollamancy
    When Crown Royal’s Dollamancer was first taught this game, he found it inadequate to just build a unipegataur. Why not outfit it with some awesome armor! His variant was not widely accepted, as it lengthened what was meant to be a simple game.
    New Rules: After a unipegataur’s 6 component slots are filled, it is ready to be outfitted with armor. Play progresses as before, except now the player assigns cards to Armor slots, which come in the same variety and point systems as the Component slots.
    Once all Armor slots are filled, then the player may begin building its weapon.
    Play ends when all Component slots and Armor slots are filled on all players’ unipegataurs. Points are calculated from all Component slots, Armor slots, and Weapon slot.

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     Post Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 2:28 am 
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    Here's another idea, based loosely on 'War', but played in an Erfworld hex-map:

    Hex War
    Start with a normal deck of playing cards, two players, a coin, and enough table-space between you such that you can have cards arrayed in a 7-hex ‘map’: 6 'border' cards in a center 'hex', with additional 'border' cards around that hex to create 6 more hexes.

    Set Up:
    Separate the deck into two halves, with one player getting the red cards (Hearts and Diamonds) and the other player getting the black cards (Spades and Clubs.) Each player shuffles their half-deck and places it nearby, face down.

    Each player then draws 5 cards. If you have more than 2 'Royalty' face-cards, you must show them, reshuffle your half-deck and redraw.

    (the rest is under this spoiler tag, for length)
    Spoiler: show
    From your hands of five cards, each player chooses three numbered (non-face) cards to fill the three 'border' spaces of the center hex closest to them, so that each player has half of the center hex.

    Keep the other two cards as your ‘hand’. Leave the remainder of your decks face down as draw piles.

    Once the players have selected their cards and played them face down to create the center hex, each player turns face-up only cards that adjacent to ‘enemy’ cards. Each player should now have one face-down card, opposite the opponent's face-down card, and two face-up cards on either side. All arranged in a hexagon pattern. This is the starting configuration for the center hex.

    The total value of the cards you have played as borders of a hex is your Military Strength in that hex. Note that your opponent does not know the full strength, because they do not know the strength of your face-down card. This is the ‘fog of war’.

    Flip the coin to see who goes first.

    Play
    On your turn, do these two actions, in order:
    1. Draw one to three new cards, bringing your hand to three cards.
    2. Select a card to play.
    a. A number card can be played in any empty space adjacent to one of your cards in order to fill out the outer hexes of the map.
    b. A number card can be played to replace one of your cards on the map. If the replaced card is face-down, so is the new card. If the replaced card is face-up, so is the new card. The replaced card is discarded.
    c. A number card can be played on top of an enemy face-up card IF it is the same value AND you have a card adjacent. This is called a ‘Border Skirmish’. If you take this option, you are the attacker and must also play (face down) another card from your hand. Your opponent, the defender, may choose to ALSO play a card face-down from his or her hand, but it is not required. Reveal the face down card(s) and add them to any of your adjacent cards – you may reveal a face-down card this way if you wish, but are not required to. If your revealed total is higher than the defender’s revealed total, the attack has been successful! The defender’s card is discarded and your may select a card from your hand to play in that space. Other cards in play may be turned face-up or face-down by this change to the map.
    d. A face card can be played in the center of any hex in which you have the higher revealed total of border cards, even if your opponent’s face card is already there. When you do this, it is called ‘capturing a hex’. Your opponent can contest this action by playing a face card of his or her own, if their face-card is not already present in the hex. If this happens, it is a full blown ‘Hex War’!
    i. The face cards played (or Defender’s face card already present) come with secret strengths: a number of cards drawn directly from the draw stacks based on the face card: Jacks add 1 card, Queens add 2 cards, and Kings add 3 cards. Each player reveals these additional cards.
    1. IF any ‘2’ cards are exposed this way, they are ‘Assassins’! Starting with the Defending player, if he or she reveals an Assassin, he or she may select an attacking card to remove from the game. If used this way, the Assassin is also removed from the game. After the Defender, the Attacker may also trigger any Assassin that came up on that side. If there are more ‘2’s after this, keep taking turns until each ‘2’ has either been used as an assassin or left (for now) as a value ‘2’ card. (It can still be used later.)
    2. If any other face cards are exposed this way, AND NOT ASSASSINATED, they bring MORE cards with them, as above; Jacks bring 1, Queens bring 2 and Kings bring 3 cards from the draw pile. If more ‘2’s are revealed, then there can be another round of assassination. If more face cards are revealed in this second wave, a 3rd wave of cards are revealed, etc.
    ii. Once all the assassins and face cards have been resolved, total up the revealed number cards for each side of the battle. Both players may reveal any un-revealed border cards in that hex to add to their totals. The side with the highest total is the winner of the ‘Hex War’. Play cards from your hand to resolve unlikely ties.
    iii. The winning side may choose any face-card that was played or revealed in the battle to leave in the conquered hex. If the winning side ends up with NO face-card to leave in the hex, the hex is left empty.
    iv. ALL the other cards that were drawn for the Hex War, on both sides, are discarded.

    Winning
    The winning player has conquered the center hex AND three of the six surrounding hexes.

    Additional Notes
    If your draw stack is depleted, you can shuffle your discards and use them as your draw stack. If you still don’t have enough, well, tough luck.
    You can always remember which face-down cards are yours because they are behind a wall of your face-up cards. Any of your cards adjacent to any enemy cards are always turned face-up. Any that are not adjacent are always turned face-down.
    Face cards, or ‘Royalty’, do not add anything to your totals
    The best targets for assassination are the opponent’s Kings, naturally. However, they can also be used to ‘kill’ strong numbered cards when you’re in a life-or-death battle.
    Keep an eye on the discard piles and learn to count cards.

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     Post Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 6:40 pm 
    Print Book 2 & Draw Book 3 Supporter This user is a Tool! This user was a Tool before it was cool Pin-up Calendar and New Art Team Supporter This user posted the comment of the month Here for the 10th Anniversary Has collected at least one unit Erfworld Bicycle® Playing Cards supporter
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    "Ruinscape"

    Involves:

    Standard 52 card deck.
    3 dice

    A game often played among sides that establish a currency alongside "shmuckers" to allow the players to gamble. The objective of the game is to win more chips than your opponent. The game is largely luck with a minor element of skill involved.

    The players take it in turn to be the ruin explorer and the ruin master and each player commits the same amount of 'chips' which they bet with throughout the game. The first player to lose all their 'chips' loses the game. The most common stakes is thirty chips per player however that can vary depending on the worth of the currency.

    The game

    The players each roll a dice to determine who is the ruin explorer and who is the ruin master. The highest roll takes the role of ruin master and the lowest roll the role of ruin explorer (if a tie keep rolling until one player rolls higher than the other).

    The ruin explorer draws a card that becomes their 'warlord' the players then commit chips to the outcome (the ruin master must meet this commitment or as near as he can*), the ruin master then draws two cards face down and one card face up with the face up card representing the monster the warlord must defeat. The highest card wins (aces are high and drawing cards of the same value favors the monster). After that room in the ruin is resolved if the ruin explorer has won the ruin explorer draws another card to represent his warlord and the game continues as before. If the ruin explorer loses the roles are reversed and the game continues with the roles reversed. The game continues until one player loses all his chips.

    During the game the player may declare 'luckamancy' before the betting begins and they may add the result of their dice roll to the numeric value of their card. Each player can only declare this option when they assume the role of ruin explorer and only three times per game**.

    *If the ruin master is confronted with a bet he does not have the chips to meet he must commit all the remaining chips he has.
    ** A game end when all 52 cards have been used and the players claim the chips that have been won.

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     Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:49 pm 
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    Hi folks, I'm very new and very late to this, but here's a game. Enjoy!

    Hegemon!
    The game of trusting your allies only very slightly more than your enemy.

    This is a game played by the nobles of Erfworld to learn the powers and pitfalls of an alliance of necessity. When you are the strongest side, you must be strategic and calculating, or else your enemies will gang up on you and beat you back down to size. When you are in a coalition, you must convince others to extend themselves while maintaining your own strength so that you can seize power when the opportunity presents itself.

    4-10 players
    -1 player is the Hegemon
    - others are the Coalition

    Setup:
    To start, everyone is in the coalition, or you can make the oldest player the hegemon to begin.
    - Coalition members each get 3 cards
    - Choose a Hegemon using the "Changing Hegemon" rules below.
    - Hegemon gets 10 cards
    - Everyone else draws back up to 3 cards

    Changing Hegemon
    - Any player (except the deposed Hegemon, if there is one) who wishes to be the Hegemon plays a face card face-down, and all are revealed at the same time. (Aces are high in this situation) The highest non-duplicated card becomes the new Hegemon.
    - The new hegemon takes their winning card as a point card and discards the others.
    - If no one plays a card, or all are duplicates, the old hegemon resumes their place as hegemon, drawing 10 new cards.
    - - If it's the first time and there is no previous hegemon, just try again.

    Order of Play:
    Challenge
    - Hegemon plays a number of cards equal to the number of coalition members
    Response
    - coalition players play their cards together to match the value of each card by adding up to it or subtracting down to it (talking is ok, but don't show your whole hand!)
    - - e.g. the hegemon plays a 2, a 5, and a 7
    - - - the 2 is matched with a 7 from player 2 and a 5 from player 3
    - - - the 5 is matched with a 2 from player 2 and a 3 from player 3
    - - - the 7 is matched with a 7 from player 4
    - - you're welcome to pick up cards that you've played, in order to play them somewhere else.
    Upkeep
    - Each challenge card without a match is given to the hegemon as a point card (displayed prominently - have pride your points)
    - If the Hegemon earned points, they remain Hegemon and draw back up to 10 cards
    - If all three cards are matched, the hegemon is deposed, discards their cards, draws 3 more, and joins the coalition
    - Coalition members (not the former hegemon) discard any cards they wish and draw back up to 3 cards
    - Shuffle the discarded and played cards and put them at the bottom of the draw deck (card counting is encouraged, but don't spend too much time on it)

    End
    - Play until one player has 5 Point cards, or for (Players * 3) rounds

    Rules Tweaking
    3 cards per coalition member turned out ok in the playtesting, but here is a house rule that you can try if the first hegemon tends to win every game
    - if the hegemon wins one or more points in a challenge round, the coalition members draw to 4 cards for the next round

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     Post Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:30 pm 
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    Little Skirmish

    A game played by warlords and rulers to simulate what they might do when faced with a small enemy group of unknown composition with a small force of their own. Requires thought about positioning and allocation of limited forces, as well as foresight and planning to keep the stacks as optimal as possible.

    Originally Ten Gross by j_scheibel, after playing it at Erfworld Card Game event during Gencon myself and two others (whos forum names I did not get or they did not have) we made some small changes, and we think they have made it a much more fun and strategic game, along with clarifying a few rules that were accidentally omitted. A final test with 0beron during the fan get together seemed to confirm that it is a very quick and fun game that is easy to get the hang of. The scoring can take a bit of getting used to, but is fairly straightforward once learned.

    2 players

    Objective:
    The goal of the game is to be the first person to reach 5 points (or however many you feel like playing to). As the game is played the players take turn building up two stacks of 4 cards, Stack A and Stack B, which then fight one another (Stack A from player 1 fights Stack A from player 2, etc.) and whoever has the higher stack gets a point. In the case of ties neither player gets a point for that stack. If you win with both stacks you get a bonus point.

    Building Stacks and Going First:
    This game is played with a normal 52 card deck. (No jokers.) Shuffle the deck. Each player takes a card from the top of the deck and reveals it.
    Whoever draws highest goes first. These cards go in to the discard pile. The Ace is always played as a high card in this game.

    On a players turn they may either draw 2 cards, placing one face down in one of their two stacks and then discard the other card, or they may take the top card of the discard pile and add it to one of their stacks.

    Stacks may have no more than 4 cards, and a player may have no more than 2 stacks. It is a good idea to designate before play starts which stack will be facing which enemy stack so there is no confusion. It can be whichever stack is directly across or diagonal or however the players wish to set it up, so long as it remains consistant.

    Stack Strength:
    Stack strength is calculated using the following methods.
    Numbered cards (2-10) are worth their number value. So a 5 is worth 5 points, a 7 worth 7.
    Pairs, triplets, and quadruplets of numbered cards are worth 2x, 3x, or 4x normal points. So a pair of 7s are worth 14 points each for a total of 28 points.
    Face cards (Jack, Queen, King, Ace) act as multipliers unless all 4 cards in the stack are face cards. A single face card is 2x for the entire stack, two face cards is 4x for the stack, and three face cards are 6x for the entire stack. The face cards do not need to match in any way for this. If however there are 4 face cards, then they provide no multiplier and are instead valued at 11, 12, 13, and 14 points for Jack, Queen, King, Ace. In this case they follow the rules for numbered cards above in regards to pairs, etc.
    Runs are worth double points. So having 3, 4, 5, 6 is worth double points because it is a run. This extends into the face cards, such that 9, 10, J, Q is a run and worth double points. Note that as above, ace is always considered high, and thus A, 2, 3, 4 is not a run.
    Flushes (all 4 cards in a stack are the same suit) are worth triple points.

    Ending the Round:
    Once both players have their two full stacks of 4 cards, they are revealed and their strengths compared (stack A vs A and stack B vs B) with the stronger stack winning. Each winning stack gets 1 point for the player, with ties getting 0 points, and the player getting a bonus point if both their stacks win. Victory is first player to 5 points or another agreed on total.

    Once the stacks have fought, they and the discard pile are shuffled and placed at the bottom of the draw deck and play continues with the player who went second last time going first this time. Thus, card counting is encouraged.

    Grand Battles and Alliances:
    While it hasn't been tested, there is little reason that extra players and decks couldn't be used, with the suggestion of 1 deck per three players or part thereof. Play works the same, with all players comparing their Stack A vs the others and so on, with only the highest one winning.

    Similarly team battles could be done with even number players, with each team adding up their A stacks separately (to prevent having more than 4 cards added at a time) then combining the totals to face the enemy A stacks.

    Some examples stacks: (assume no flushes)
    A Q K 4 = 4x6 = 24
    A A 7 8 = (7+8)*4 = 60
    Q 3 3 10 = (3x2+3x2+10) x 2= 44
    5 6 7 8 = (5 + 6 + 7 + 8) x 2 = 52
    J Q K A = (11 + 12 + 13 + 14) x 2 = 100 – flush is 300
    A A A A = 56x4 = 224

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     Post Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 8:15 pm 
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    Did they decide what games to test? Did they test those games? how'd it all work out?

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     Post Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 5:52 am 
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    This user has been published! This user is a Tool! This user got funny with a rodent Here for the 10th Anniversary Has collected at least one unit
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    Website: http://anastenazontas.blogspot.fr/2012/03/casino-surnatural.html
    I too ma curious as to how the event go. What games where tested? Is there feedback? I guess we will know more once con season is over and the website is running smooth again.

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     Post Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:50 am 
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    It has been over a month, I was hoping there was some kind of followup here. I was curious how the event happened and if it even happened.

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     Post Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 5:55 pm 
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    I know it happened, and also that people talked about it, mostly in the "Your Games" subforum. Beyond that... No idea. :)

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     Post Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 1:53 pm 
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    Sigh. That's not a great deal of help. But thanks for the news.

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     Post Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 3:12 am 
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    link to gencon results is up on first page but is tools only sigh.

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    Plus it's Gillian, it's not evil when they're doing it to Gillian, as half the time it's self defence and the other half she's into it.

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     Post Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:35 pm 
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    That's O.K. It happens.

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